Ukraine is divided into 27 oblasts, which we would call a “province” or “region.” In the United States, we have states, which is the closest thing we have to an oblast. Most of our time in Ukraine was spent in and around Lviv Oblast. For two days, we were able to visit Kamianets-Podilskyi in the Khmelnytskyi Oblast. The reason for our visit was Sasha, one member in our group and runs Rebuild Ukraine Travel, had recently found out he had a cousin in the region. Being so close, we couldn’t pass up the opportunity for Sasha to meet his cousin face-to-face.
In order to get to Kamianets-Podilskyi from Lviv, we had to take a 9-hour train ride. This was when we got an idea of the enormity of Ukraine. Like many Americans, I had little knowledge about the size of Ukraine. I knew it was the 2nd largest country in Europe, with Russia being the largest, but that’s about all I knew. Khmelnytskyi is only 2 oblasts away from Lviv. Still, we needed to take a long train ride to get there.
We found our sleeping car, which had 2 bunk beds in a tiny compartment. A tall snowboarder, whose board took up a big chuck of real estate within the cabin, already occupied one bed. We situated our belongings as the train left the snowy station. During the train ride, we napped, worked, chatted, ate warm soup, and napped some more.
We arrived in Khmelynyskyi shortly before the midnight curfew. Unsure how to catch a taxi to our hotel, it took some digging. We were 3 tired, hungry, and grumpy men in need of a bed and hot food. In fact, I was so exhausted and hangry (angry because of being hungry), that the details of the night are hazy. Thankfully, Sasha could speak Ukrainian and Russian and figured out how to get a taxi. By that time of the night, there was nobody out. Because of Russia’s invasion, there is a midnight curfew and there’s a punishment for being out late. Something we were in constantly reminded of while in Ukraine.
Sasha learned where to find a taxi and we headed off in the direction. The taxi was about a half-mile from the train station and we sloshed through the snow and over a bridge, dragging our suitcases and backpacks. There wasn’t much room in the taxi, so we had to hold some of our luggage on our laps. Shortly after driving off, police forced the taxi to pull over. As soon as the driver rolled his window down, he said, “Americans,” and motioned at us. The officer shined his flashlight at our faces and looked over the driver’s ID. He motioned for us to go and we headed to the hotel.
Because of the time of our arrival, the hotel wasn’t in Kamianets. Once we got to the hotel, I inquired about any food, but the woman behind the counter shook her head “no.” Regardless, I was happy to have a bed. Joshua and I took one room and Sasha stayed in another. Before bed, I chowed down on protein bars and chips before falling asleep.
A gray sky greeted us the next morning, and we ate a delicious breakfast. Enjoying great food was a constant occurrence while in Ukraine. Throughout our time, we were treated to some of the best food I’ve ever had. And the service was always top-notch.
A car arrived for us and took us the rest of the way to Kamianets-Podilskyi. We were exhausted from our journeys and appreciated the brief break at the beautiful Kleopatra Hotel. At first, I found it odd that a hotel in Ukraine was named after the famous Egyptian, then I remembered that the United States has its fair share of hotels, resorts, and casinos names after Romans and Greeks. Then, it didn’t seem so odd.
We had a short rest at the hotel before we took a walking tour of the city. The city was finishing up a festival or fair as we walked around. Our guide was from a local tourism center and gave us a great history lesson about the city. We also appreciated her feistiness, because it wasn’t easy to show around 3 weary men, 2 of which (Joshua and I) enjoy making inappropriate jokes.
After a quick walking tour, we climbed into a car to check out some local businesses. During our time in Ukraine, Ukrainian resolve often impressed me. A toughness that lies within all Ukrainians. We visited a factory that was founded in Kyiv, but had to be moved far away from the battles in the east. We toured another factory and store that specialized in packaged foods. And we talked to owners of a clothing store, where employees made custom fit attire and sold local jewelry from artisans. Ukrainians have never stopped living their lives. They continue to plan for the day when the threat of war is no longer on their doorstep or in the skies above. While touring the factory, an employee asked matter-of-factly, “why are you here?” I answered, “to show the world that there’s more to Ukraine than a war.”
Once again, we had a lovely meal. Joshua tried horse meet, but I was not as brave. I decided on a steak, which was cooked to perfection.
After a day of meeting local store owners and eating delicious food, the sun lowered and darkness came over the city. Sasha’s cousin and 2 others that worked with the local government wanted to show us a dark moment in Ukraine’s history.
The snow fell around us and we walked down a dimly lit street. As the men walked in front of us down the dark street, I looked at Joshua and cracked a joke, “I’ve seen this movie and it never turns out well for the tourists.” We stopped outside a church. One man knocked on a door of the Roman Catholic Church or Archangel Michael. The door opened and we were let inside and descended into the basement.
In the 1930s, the Soviets and KGB used the basement of the church, to imprison, torture, and kill locals. Throughout the basement, photos of those that lost their lives were placed. Earlier, we were laughing and making jokes. The mood had changed drastically while walking through the basement. An unseen heavy weight seemed to have been placed on our backs. We were quiet and still.
Inside the church, we also learned about the Kamianets-Podilskyi Massacre, which occurred during World War 2. On August 27th and 28th, 1941, 23,600 Jews were murdered in the city. On those horrible August days, SS guards carried out the murders. I was ashamed to not have heard about the mass killing before the trip.
Once outside the church, we were led to the top of a stairway. At the bottom of the stairs was a locked iron gate. Before being told what happened there, I could tell it was a place of horrors. I was informed the KGB would take people they deemed a problem and led them to the top of the stairs, where a gun was placed at the back of the head and fired, causing bodies to tumble down the steps. There was little talking as we made our way back to the hotel.
The next morning, we ate breakfast and walked towards the Kamianets-Podilskyi government building, where a presentation was taking place with the Deputy Mayor. At the presentation, a reenactment of a reading of Magdeburg Rights that were given in the 14th century of the charter. After the reading, I got the chance to speak with Deputy Mayor Dmitry Nazarenko. While talking to Deputy Mayor Nazarenko, I brought up with how impressed I was at the how Ukrainians go on and live their lives despite Russian aggression. He responded, “It’s what we do. It’s what we have always done. We remember the past, but live for today and plan for tomorrow. And hopefully, we can count on help from our allies.”
After the presentation and speaking with the Governor, our guide joined once again to take us to the Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle. The castle is huge and beautiful. It dates back to the 14th century and has changed hands between Lithuania, Poland, Russia, and Ukraine. Originally built to fortify the town and rebuilt again for the same purposes. Being one of Ukraine’s Seven Wonders, you can see why it was a pre-Russian invasion tourist destination.
During the 18th century, the castle was no longer needed to fortify the city and became a prison. During the French invasion of Russia in 1812, French troops stayed within the castle walls. After the war, the castle went back to being a prison. After the 1905 Revolution, political parties were allowed offices within the castle. In the late 1930s, the castle was turned into a museum and became a top destination for tourists.
After touring the castle, we once again had a delicious meal and then headed to an SOS school. SOS is a charity program to help displaced Ukrainians. I interviewed staff members and that article can be found here.
We walked around the city some more and I was awestruck by the beauty of Kamianets-Podilskyi. We saw spots where lovers frequent to propose marriage. Businesses that are trying to stay open. Kids playing in snowy parks. Children going home from school. Old men chatting about bygone years and other signs of continuing life. Before I headed to Ukraine, I thought I would find a population so devastated by war that people would keep to themselves and be so depressed that the living would have no signs of life. That’s not what I found. Ukrainians are doing their best to thrive. While a war rages on, Ukrainians are opening new businesses, shopping, going out to eat, socializing in bars and falling in love. Putin and his Russian war machine are destroying a beautiful country and murdering Ukrainians, but there is something the world can learn from Ukraine. That despite the biggest challenges and disastrous scenarios, life goes on. And that life should be lived to the fullest.
When our time in Kamianets-Podilskyi came to an end, it was late and our gracious host dropped us off at the train station. It was at night and fresh snow had covered the ground. Before we boarded the train, a man stopped by us because he heard us talking. He asked, “Are you American?” I said, “yes.” Then the man smiled and said, “Why are you here?” We had a script down pat by this point and shared that we were there to tell a Ukrainian story that not many are hearing. He smiled and shared with us that he was a trumpet player and on his way to a gig. Proof once again that music and joy will always be found in Ukraine.
While in Kamianets-Podilskyi, We received assistance from Igor Holubakha, President of Ukrainian Association of Tour Operators (UATO). UATO helped us by taking care of our lodging, food, tour guides, transportation, and organized our meetings.
Our guide was provided by the Kamianets-Podilkskyi city authorities.
Our American/Ukrainian contact, Sasha Vosk, was born in Ukraine and looks to help build Ukraine through tourism. He founded the organization, Rebuild Ukraine Travel, to help build up the Ukrainian economy and help inform the world of all that Ukraine offers. One doesn’t need to wait till the end of the war to visit the country. It’s ready for tourists now.
I also visited Ukraine with Joshua Brandenburg, a photographer from New York City. You can visit his website here and follow him on Instagram here.
Read these stories from my Ukraine trip:
Where is God During War: A conversation with a Ukrainian Priest
15 Reasons to Visit Western Ukraine Now
Defeating Darkness with Art: Touring Park 3020
Getting Naked in Ukraine
Rebuilding Ukraine by Rebuilding Children’s Lives: My interview with the staff of SOS
Emily Resort and Spa in Lviv, Ukraine is a Luxury Paradise with Family-Friendly Activities
Visiting Ukraine During the War
Representing America in the Back of a Taxi in Ukraine
Promoting Tourism in Ukraine During the War
Traditional Ukrainian Drink Uzvar Recipe
Kyiv Mule Cocktail Recipe
Our assistance in Lviv was organized by the Lviv government to show that Ukraine is open for tourism. We felt completely safe throughout our time in the Lviv Oblast region. We had many sumptuous meals and were entertained throughout our time. (Follow Lviv’s tourism Instagram and Facebook accounts for more informati`on)