My son and I arrived in Toledo, Spain, tired from a week of soccer in Madrid. We were in Madrid so my son could have an intense week of soccer training, but some bad weather hit the eastern United States, and we found ourselves with an extended stay in Spain. With a few days added to our trip, we took a short train ride from Madrid to Toledo, and it was the perfect decision.
My son was tired and sore, so I left him in the hotel room to explore Toledo on my own. I had heard the Jewish Quarter was a must-visit while in Toledo, and I headed in that direction. Since almost everything is within walking distance in Toledo, I quickly found myself outside the Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca.
Santa Maria la Blanca was built between 1180 and 1205 in the 12th century. During this time, Christianity ruled the Castile Kingdom. During this period, there was a Jewish community living in Toledo, and it is believed that Yosef ben Shoshan commissioned the building of the synagogue, and was built by Muslim artisans. After the completion of the building, it became known as “Sinagoga Mayor (Main Synagogue)” and was the central place of prayer for the Jews living in Toledo.
During the 12th to the 14th centuries, Toledo was known as the “City of Three Cultures,” where Christians, Jews, and Muslims lived among one another. The synagogue is living proof of a time when the three religions lived together in relative peace. The building reflects this with its hypostyle hall and five aisles divided by octagonal pillars, which is found in many mosques.
The time of living in peace ended in 1355, when violent attacks rained down on the Jewish community living in Toledo, and by 1391, those attacks against Jews had spread throughout Spain.
Ferrand Martinez was a preacher in Seville who denounced Jews as enemies of Christ. His followers acted on his words, and hatred towards non Christians lit a fire in Spain, which became known as “The Progroms of 1391.” Thousands of Jews and Muslims were killed, looted, and forcibly baptized. The violence spread to Toledo, and the Jewish Quarter was decimated. The seeds planted by Martinez eventually grew into the Spanish Inquisition.
The synagogue was seized and converted into a Christian church, and was renamed to what it is known as today. The synagogue was modified by adding chapels and Christian elements. The synagogue/church changed once again and became a military barracks in 1791, and stayed that way until 1851.
In the 19th century, the synagogue became a historical and cultural site and underwent restoration. The Catholic Church once again took ownership of the building. There are no longer services held within the synagogue, and it is only used as a museum.
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Beautiful destination and great travel tips.