Exploring Kenilworth Castle

My son and I arrived at Kenilworth Castle on a chilly, wet day. Mud splashed on our shoes immediately after stepping out of our rental vehicle. We were at the tail end of a Shakespearean tour in Stratford-upon-Avon and Kenilworth was our last stop. The previous day, we toured Warwick Castle on a sunny day. Despite one day and a distance of 7 miles, the weather and our tour of the castles were vastly different from one another.

Kenilworth Castle is in ruins after enduring Norman conquests and the English Civil War. Being in ruins is part of the appeal. Walking around Kenilworth required a bit of imagination as we toured the once majestic castle.

Perhaps the most famous story about Kenilworth revolved around Queen Elizabeth I during the 16th century. Queen Elizabeth I granted the castle to Robert Dudley, the Earl of Leicester. They were rumored to have had a whirlwind romance, and Dudley hoped to win the Queen’s hand in marriage, even though he was married to someone else. That someone else, Amy Robsart, died after falling down a staircase and breaking her neck. Her death was scandalous, bud Dudley was absolved from the ordeal and her death was reported “accidental.”

Queen Elizabeth visited the castle often, and during one trip, stayed for 19 days. Visitors to Kenilworth can see what’s left of the room she stayed in. Dudley and Elizabeth were never married and history looks back at him as one of her suitors that could not win her hand in marriage.

Stories about Kenilworth often focus on its involvement in the life of Queen Elizabeth, but the castle’s rich history dates back to the 12th century. The castle was originally built in the 1120s by Geoffrey de Clinton, a royal chamberlain under King Henry I. It was a Norman stronghold and the original structure was designed as a motte-and-bailey structure, which means it was built with raised earthwork (the motte), and was overseen by a fortified tower, with an enclosed courtyard (the bailey). By the 13th century, massive curtained walls were found within the castle, which also included an artificially made lake, and was strong enough to take on barrages during a siege. The most famous attempted siege occurred in 1266 during the Second Barons’ War, when it endured a six-month assault.

John Gaunt, son of King Edward III, took control of Kenilworth in the 14th century, who transformed the medieval castle into a palace. Gaunt added a Great Hall for entertaining and luxurious apartments within the castle to house his family and guests. During the War of the Roses, which encompassed the whole territory, the castle became a Lancastrian stronghold.

Much of the damage found today resulted from the English Civil War during the 1640s. Parliamentary forces damaged the castle, hoping the damage would keep it from being used in a future war.

The castle became romanticized after Sir Walter Scott wrote a historical novel, Kenilworth, about the relationship between Dudley and Elizabeth. Visiting the castle brought back memories of reading the novel for my English history class in college. However, I don’t think my son enjoyed my constant references as we walked through the ruins.

English Heritage currently operates the castle, and it is open to the public. While walking the grounds and climbing through the ruins, visitors get a taste of the layered English history. If you are a fan of romantic literature, a lover of history, or have an adventurous spirit, you will enjoy spending a day at Kenilworth. To purchase tickets to Kenilworth, click here.