48 Hours in Winchester and Chawton

My daughter and I flew from New York City to London to celebrate Jane Austen’s life and visit places that were important to her. Our priority was Jane Austen, but we also wanted to explore southeast England and take in all there was to do.

After landing in London, we did some sightseeing and took a speedboat tour on the Thames. The next morning, we jumped in our rental car and drove southeast towards Winchester, with brief stops at the Whitchurch Silk Mill and Arundel Castle.

We arrived in Winchester much later than we wanted, mainly because of a problem with the rental car. We originally hoped to be at our destination hours earlier, but as things go when you travel, you don’t always get to stick to the plan. Because of time constraints, we parked the car at the Winchester Royal Hotel, and ran to see Winchester’s Great Hall.

I would have loved to spend hours walking around the Great Hall, but we only had 75 minutes, which was probably just right for my daughter. However, I would have loved to spend more time soaking it all in.

To read my story about the Great Hall, click here.

The Great Hall was built by Henry III between 1222 and 1235. It was built upon a previous castle made of timber that was constructed by William the Conqueror in 1067 after the Norman Conquest. For over a century, it served as the principal royal seat. The focal point of the Great Hall is the giant Knights of the Roundtable.

Stretching 18 feet across and weighing 1.2 metric tons, the enormous table hangs on the wall for visitors to marvel at. Much like King Arthur, the table’s origins are a mystery. It was most likely commissioned by Edward I in the 13th century. It is believed to have been built for a tournament or celebration.

The Great Hall closed, and we strolled back to the Winchester Royal Hotel and dumped our suitcases in our room. We were exhausted and kicked back and rested at the hotel for a bit. The hotel in itself was worth the trip alone.

The Royal Winchester Hotel was intended for Lady Mary West in the 16th century, although she never lived there. The location became a secret refuge for Catholic priests during the era of recusancy, which during that time was a bishop’s house. In 1794, the property became a convent for English Benedictine nuns. In 1858, the property was transformed into a hotel, which it has been to this day.

The hotel was a lovely place to stay during our time in Winchester. The location is perfect for people visiting Winchester. We could walk to all the important destinations in Winchester from our hotel. The hotel also served delicious breakfasts during our 2-night stay.

After a brief respite at the hotel, we walked to 8 College Street, where Jane Austen drew her final breath. The place is a private residence, so we stopped outside and looked at a plaque commemorating the moment.

Jane Austen lived in nearby Chawton and had become gravely ill. Winchester had better medical care than Chawton, so she made the journey to stay at a friend’s house, which was close to the local hospital. She stayed at the home for 55 days and passed away inside the home.

My daughter and I had worked up an appetite and needed some good comfort food. Since pizza is the best comfort food there is, we walked to Three Joe’s Pizza. Three Joes makes delicious sourdough pizza, and we scarfed down the delicious food. With our bellies full of food and our bodies exhausted, we made our way back to the hotel for a good night’s rest.

The following morning, we drove 30 minutes from Winchester to Chawton, where Jane Austen lived and wrote many of her novels. Walking inside the Jane Austen House was a dream come true. One of those moments where I was incredibly thankful to be a travel creator. My daughter and I walked through her home and garden, envisioning what it was like during Jane’s time.

To read about our trip to Jane Austen’s England, click here.

We left Jane Austen’s house and walked 10 minutes down the road to the Chawton House, where her brother, Edward, lived. To read about our visit to the Chawton House, click here.

The house was built in the 16th century by Sir Richard Knight. The home was passed down from one generation to the next until Thomas Knight II and his wife Catherine occupied the home. The Knights were distant relatives of the Austen family and were visiting their relatives in Bath. The Knights were childless and during their visit loved spending time with the young Edward. Edward, who was playful and well-mannered, was the type of son the Knights dreamed of having. They asked the Austens if Edward could accompany them on a European trip, and the Austens agreed. The Austens lived modestly, and although they were not poor, they didn’t have the means for travel and a top-notch education. When Edward and the Knights returned, the Knights asked if they could adopt Edward. Realizing the Knights could offer a life the Austens could not, they agreed to the adoption.

The Chatow House is a beautiful home, and children are encouraged to take part in a scavenger hunt. My daughter and I had a wonderful time going from room to room, looking for various objects. At the end of our tour, we enjoyed a lovely English lunch at the House’s Tearoom. During the lunch, an elderly couple at a nearby table could not get enough of my daughter’s excitement. She was their entertainment for the day, and I wondered if the Knights looked at Edward the way the couple joyfully watched my daughter. It was a wonderful stop during our trip through southeastern England.

We drove back to Winchester and parked the car back at the hotel and then walked to the 878 AD Experience. To read about the 878 AD Experience, click here.

After our 2 weeks in the United Kingdom, my daughter listed the 878 AD Experience as one of the top 3 things we did during our trip. The 878 AD Experience is an immersive activity that takes visitors back to the Battle of Edington. Actors guided us through activities and told stories of the Viking invasion and the heroics of King Alfred the Great. We were given a checklist of things to do, and we crossed everything off our list. My daughter loved talking to the actors about their lives and even played games with them.

We were short on time after our trip to 878 AD and made it to the Winchester City Museum. My only regret during our visit to Winchester was that we did not spend enough time at the museum. We arrived right before closing and could spend only a few minutes. Whenever I go back to Winchester, I’m going to make it a priority to stay a couple of hours perusing the museum.

We had a reservation at the Kyoto Kitchen, which is an upscale Japanese restaurant in Winchester. As soon as we entered, I wished we had gone back to our hotel to change our clothes. The food was delicious, and my daughter and I enjoyed a lovely conversation over our delicious meal.

We left the restaurant and wanted one more delicious treat for our last night in Winchester. We walked downtown and stopped at Republic of Pizza for some refreshing gelato. We walked around town, eating our gelato while wishing we had more time in Winchester.

The next morning, we packed up our bags and went to breakfast for our last tasty moment in Winchester. We said goodbye to the Royal Winchester Hotel and walked to the Winchester Cathedral to pay our respects at the final resting place of Jane Austen.

To read about the Winchester Cathedral, click here.

In 642, King Cenwalh of Wessex commissioned the building of a church dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul. In 1079, Bishop Walkelin, who was appointed by William the Conqueror, had stones added to the church to reinforce the building. When the church was completed, it had the longest nave in Europe. In the 14th century, the Gothic style swept throughout Europe and influenced additions to the cathedral. Now, people from around the world visit Winchester Cathedral to pay homage to Jane Austen or to participate in a pilgrimage inspired by the Canterbury Tales.

Once our tour of the cathedral was complete, we said goodbye to Winchester and continued on our journey around southeast England. Many people will be like us and visit Winchester for its connection to Jane Austen. But the town is much more than a last resting place. Winchester is an important cornerstone of English history, with a vibrant culinary scene.

I needed at least one more day in Winchester. Looking back, I would have loved to have spent more time in the pubs and bookstores, as well as received a full tour of the Winchester City Museum. I visit the United Kingdom every other year, and on my next trip I’ll give Winchester more time. I spent around 48 hours between Winchester and Chawton, but would have loved to have spent 72.